I am very very lazy and behind with posts. My apologies.
Janamastmi was a couple of weeks ago and, given that it is the festival of Krishna, I thought I had better go to ISKCON (aka the Hare Krishnas). To my delight, Harshida told me that she would be going up there as well, and I already knew that there were massive celebrations planned. But I faced a dilemma. Harshida was going to go early in the morning to do her prayers but the festival would be carrying on all day and the climax would be at midnight, when Krishna is meant to have been born. So, I could either go with Harshida and simply experience her world, or I could wait and see the big, impressive stuff. So, at 6.30am, I met Harshida outside the ISKCON temple in Watford. I had been to other festivals here and I was curious to see what rituals Harshida herself experiences and why she chooses to attend. I left the impressive stuff for another time, not least because that afternoon I had family commitments, so it all worked out quite well.
As I arrived, it started to rain. Tents and stalls were laid out everywhere, waiting to be used. I hoped that the day would improve by the time that people arrived to enjoy it (it didn’t).
The doors to the temple itself did not open until 7am, so I had some time to kill and I didn’t know where to go. I went upstairs in the ornate mansion house and found people sitting in corners, on stairs, huddled in pairs or alone. Many were murmuring mantras or walking about in prayer. The hum created was both eerie and strangely comforting. I can only assume that the prayers were for Krishna, although I suppose everyone had their personal gods and maybe, even on Krishna’s day, your own deity still gets a look in.
Eventually people were let into the main prayer room. Harshida said “we want to get all the way to the left hand side” which, at this point, was at the back, far away from the statue of the guru of this temple. Harshida is even shorter than me, and even standing on each other’s shoulders, we would have been unlikely to be able to see the singers, drummers and priests who were conducting the ritual at the front.
It looked a bit like this:
A view from the back
The chants went on for about half an hour. The prayers were well known to most of the people there and, as soon as we got to “Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Hare Hare, Krishna Krishna”, even I could join in. As this was happening, more and more people entered the room and joined the congregation. There was an invisible line between men and women which was often blurred, and then became clear again. I asked Harshida why it is necessary to separate people out like this, as it was not something that I had experienced within Hindu cultures thus far. She explained that for rituals like this, when everyone is packing in so closely together, it would be rather uncomfortable to have some stranger’s bits shoved against your back. Fair enough. And it was very crowded and crammed.
Eventually, I found out why we had pushed ourselves to the back at the beginning. The entire congregation turned around and, right in front of my nose, where my back had been, this is what was revealed:
The Krishna festive spread
On the left, you have Krishna (with the flute) along with Radha, his soulmate. It is said that they are so close that they are often portrayed as a single being, Radhakrishna. On the right, you have Rama and Sita and Rama’s brother, Laksmana. Rama is the 7th incarnation of Vishnu, one of the supreme gods, and Krishna is the 8th. They are the same and, at the same time, they are very different.
Rama, as I may have written about previously, is a very straight-down-the-line kind of guy. He is very concerned with what was right and proper and did what he needed to in order to be honourable and humble. Krishna has no qualms. He was known, in his childhood, as the butter thief, and used to consort with the milk maids and young girls in his village. In the Baghavad Gita, he went to war with Arjuna, although he agreed to be a charioteer so that he would not, himself, pick up a weapon. He represents a more visceral and, more importantly, creative, side of the gods. I see Krishna as a bit of a lateral thinker. When he was faced with 16,000 enslaved women who were going to be tainted and therefore would not be able to be married, his solution was to marry the lot of them and then release them, thus cleansing them of all social misdeeds. He quite often did things in an unconventional way, although that way was always for the greater good and he never did anything that was morally questionable, just slightly odd.
Back to the tableau for a moment. In the bottom left corner was the piece de resistance. This was a cake that depicted Krishna as a child. It looked a bit like this:
Krishna Cake
It was incredibly ornate and colourful and was an offering from the temple to Lord Krishna. This entire get-up had clearly taken days to arrange and the temple was rightly proud of it. I assume that this would stay where it was until at least the end of the day, at which point the gods would be put to bed, in the same manner as the Sikhi Guru Granth Sahib.
The murtis (statues of gods) are the living gods and so much be treated with the correct level of worship and reverence. If monotheists think this is weird, I fall back on my basic Theory of Theological Credulity: If we assume that all gods are omnipotent (that is to say, all-powerful) then what is preventing them from inhabiting stone and porcelain and glass? If Jesus walked on water and Moses parted the Red Sea (and can I just point out that Moses wasn’t even a god, so kudos to him!), then why can’t Krishna be in the all the statues of himself, all at the same time? Gods get to do what they like!
As we left the temple, the rain was coming down harder and the ground was getting muddier, but I felt buoyant. Krishna: a god that I can get behind. I like his style and his world view and I feel much closer to him than I could to Rama, who just felt a little bit square. I was sad that I could not stay for the festivities, but, if I could not partake in everything, I thought that this little ritual was the perfect introduction to a rather spiffy god.